Bumpass Hell, Lassen Volcanic National Park

Bumpass Hell Basin, Lassen Volcanic National Park, California

Bumpass Hell contains the largest concentration of geothermal features in Lassen Volcanic National Park. The hike is 3 miles round trip to the start of the boardwalk with 300 ft change in elevation, but add another 0.5 mile if you plan to explore the whole Bumpass Hell basin. Usually, the trail opens July 1st, so I did not expect we could take this trail because we were there on the first and second day of summer, June 21st and June 22nd. However, at the time we were there, the trail just opened, we're lucky!

Sulphur Works, Lassen Volcanic National Park

Geothermal Action at Sulphur Works

Unlike Bumpass Hell which can only be seen after a good work-out (hiking), Sulphur Works on the other hand is one of the geothermal feature in Lassen Volcanic National Park that can be seen by visitors right from the road. However, compared to Bumpass Hell, Sulphur Works is very small in area. Though small in area, but it features fumaroles, mudpots, hot steam, boiling water, stinky hydrogen sulfide gas and other geothermal features.

Hiking Vernal and Nevada Falls

from left to right: Back of Half Dome, Liberty Cap and Nevada Fall from John Muir Trail

Mileage: 7 miles round trip 

Elevation Gain: 2000 ft

Best Time: Late Spring to Early Summer, when the waterfalls are at their thunderous best.

Trailhead: at Happy Isles ( from the valley, take the Yosemite free shuttle bus and get off at Happy Isles)

Let me start this post with a quote from blogging friend Jo of Poetic Shutterbug: "Yosemite is God's country". Indeed, Yosemite is such a beautiful place and a sight to behold, it's more than just a great valley. Yosemite is one of the first wilderness National Parks in US ( 3rd after Yellowstone and Sequoia). Though it is most well known for its numerous waterfalls, but in Yosemite you will find nature's beauty and power through glacially carved massive granite rocks, an almost heaven on Earth meadows, pristine alpine lakes, giant sequoias, and miles of trails that wind through nature's beauty.   

When we were deciding before which trail to hike, Vernal and Nevada Fall or Yosemite Fall ( probably the most popular waterfall in Yosemite is the Yosemite Fall, North America's tallest waterfall), we considered the following information:

1. Yosemite Fall can be photographed from the valley. In fact, most of the people who visit Yosemite probably have seen only this waterfall thinking this is the only waterfall in Yosemite. 

Yosemite Fall from the Valley Floor

Vernal and Nevada Fall on the other hand cannot be photographed nor can be seen from the valley floor. One really has to exert an effort to take a glimpse of what it is like.

2. Hiking to the top of Yosemite Fall is more strenuous and more exposed to sun. Whereas, hiking to the top of Nevada Fall is mostly shaded by pine forest. 

3. On the day we were deciding which trail to hike next, we just finished a 13 mile Valley Floor Loop Hike plus a 4 mile round trip to Mirror Lake and Tenaya Canyon. With already tired feet, for about the same hiking mileage ( 7+ miles), a 2000 ft climb to Nevada Fall sounded better than the 2600 ft climb to the top of Yosemite Falls. 

4. We already have tons of pictures of Yosemite Fall from the valley but none of Nevada Fall. 

5. We will be back to hike Yosemite Fall and Half Dome via Cloud's Rest :)

So here goes a little bit more description of the hike to Vernal and Nevada Fall. Since you can find complete details of the Vernal and Nevada Fall hike at Yosemite Hikes, I will instead let our pictures speak for our experience.

From Happy Isles Stop to the footbridge of Vernal Fall is about 0.8 miles, 400 ft climb. This is the view from the footbridge when we were there. 

Vernal Fall From the Footbridge

( can you spot some of the people at the top of the waterfall? see how small they are compared to Vernal Fall?)

I met some tourists who probably did not do their research prior to this hike. They turned around from the footbridge very disappointed! Saying, "ahhhhh, I worked so hard for nothing!"- yes, because of the very thick leaves from the trees, the footbridge view is obstructed and the waterfall was hardly seen. What some of these tourists were meaning about working so hard was that a climb of 400 ft in 0.8 mile is very steep for those who are not much into uphill hiking and climbing stairs is a battle. But for those who did their assignment, they knew that there is so much more to Vernal fall beyond the footbridge.

After the footbridge, we continued hiking the Mist Trail, in another 0.5 mile and 400 ft climb, we were greeted with the unobstructed view of the Vernal Fall.

Unobstructed view of Vernal fall, less than 0.5 mile from the footbridge

Rainbow at the base of Vernal Fall 

( we got there at Vernal Fall between 10:00- 11:00 am, early summer or late June- but anyone can ask the park ranger at visitor Center at what time does rainbow appear in specific waterfalls because it varies with day and month of the year)

Vernal Fall and Rainbow

From the base of Vernal Fall, the trail climbs up over 600 steps over a steep granite stairway. The trail is very slippery here because of all the waterfall mist and spray. In about 0.7 miles from the footbridge, and 600 ft climb, we reached the top of Vernal Fall.

left to right: granite staircase, rainbow, and Vernal Fall from the top

At the top, there is a very scenic pool ( sorry, I forgot the name) where we stopped for our nutrition and hydration break.

Pool @ the top of Vernal Fall

( this pool is closed for swimming due to very close to Vernal Fall and some tourists who did not pay attention to the "no swimming signs" had lost their lives being swept by rushing current down to the fall )

After our nourishment break, we continued up the Mist Trail to the top of Nevada Fall. In less than half a mile from that pool above, we were greeted by the beauty of Nevada Fall.

Nevada Fall from the Mist Trail

Then, we continued up the rocky strewn slopes to get to the top of Nevada fall. For a while, we got lost of the sight of Nevada Fall in the trail, but we knew we were close because of all its thundering sound. When the trail opened to the sight of Nevada Fall again, we were again meandering an exposed trail of rocky strewn steep slopes.

Nevada Fall from the Exposed Rocky Strewn Trail

The Power of Nevada Fall 

( I took this picture with a fast shutter speed since I wanted to show the power and action of Nevada Fall. I usually use the cotton effect or slow shutter speed for waterfall shots when the waterfall is not as powerful and thunderous)

After about 1.2 miles and another 1000 ft climb from the top of Vernal Fall, we reached the top of Nevada Fall. Before reaching the top of Nevada Fall, there is a legal swimming hole where a lot of kids and other tourists stop to have a cool swim. This swimming hole is safe enough for swimming, but because we did not do our research, we did not have swimsuit, we passed the opportunity to swim in the frigid waters of Merced River. We instead moved away from the swimming crowd and seek a cooler place to enjoy the scenery with more solitude.

Where we stopped at the top to enjoy the fruits of our hike, this is where most hikers also refill their water container

When we were done resting and enjoying the scenery at the top of Nevada Fall, we looked down and looked back at where we've come from.

Looking Down and Back from Where We Came ( Though of Course we could not see the trailhead here)

Nevada Fall from the Top

Instead of returning the same route, we took the longer but less steep John Muir Trail. We had several purposes for taking a different trail, first is to photograph the very first picture above. The shot of Half Dome, Liberty Cap and Nevada Fall is from the John Muir Trail. Second was to see different scenery from a different trail. And third, it is friendlier to the knees to go downhill when the miles is longer since it means the slope is less steep. 

Here are my other posts about Yosemite and places near Yosemite:

1. Yosemite Waterfalls

2. Yosemite Valley Floor Hike

3. Sierra Nevada

4. Mono Lake

When It's Good To Hike Not Alone

Olmstead Point, only 0.25 miles round trip, with only 100 ft change in elevation! How easy is that! A lot of people don't even walk the 0.25 miles here because the view at the parking lot is already very inspiring. 

view from parking lot of Olmstead Point, Yosemite National Park, CA

Actually, the parking lot may even have more interesting views, thus my husband and cousin at the time we were there did not even bother to take the short trail to Olmstead Point thinking they were already at Olmstead Point :)

Gnarled Tree @ Olmstead Point

Lake Helen, Lassen Volcanic National Park

Frozen Lake Helen with Turquoise Melting Snow and Lassen Peak, early summer

After the steaming beauty of Bumpass Hell, and the beautiful and peaceful Manzanita Lake, another feature in Lassen Volcanic National Park is Lake Helen. Lake Helen is a glacial lake which is located to the South of the Lassen Peak and west of Bumpass Mountain in the Shasta Cascades region of Northern California. Because Lake Helen is at high elevation, at over 8000 ft, it is covered with snow for most of the year. Ice in this lake usually stays until July- August, and forms again October. The lake would probably look prettier when most of the water has melted, showing a deep blue color and reflections of the mountains. The deep blue color is due to the minerals present in it and its depth which reaches 110 ft.

Face of Lassen Peak, early summer

The Lassen Peak in the background is the most dominant feature of the park and it is also the largest plug dome volcano in the world, which erupted in 1914. Lassen Volcanic is one of the few areas in the world where all four types of volcanoes ( cinder cone, plug dome, shield, and strato) can be found.  But Lassen Volcanic National Park is not just about volcanoes, mudpots, hot spring, hissing fumaroles and other volcanic geology, the park also boasts a rich diversity of plant and animal life. The great biodiversity here is due to 2 factors: its geographic location and the abundance of its habitats. Lassen Volcanic lies at the crossroads of three great biological provinces: the Cascade range to the North, the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the South and the Great Basin Desert to the East. 

Here are two more pictures of Lake Helen with the other mountains surrounding it. 

Lake Helen and Broke Off Mountain, early summer

Turquoise Melted Snow @ Lake Helen, early summer

Twenty Lakes Basin Hike

Steelhead Lake, Twenty Lakes Basin, Lee Vining, California

How to go here:  From the town of Lee Vining, leave Hwy 395 at Hwy 120. Follow Tioga Pass Road toward Yosemite. At about 9 miles, turn North onto well marked dirt road to Saddlebag Lake.

Best Time of the Year to Hike: All summer; whenever Tioga Road is open (closed most time of the year due to snow accumulation ). Early of summer season, high water, wet meadows, and deep snow may make the hike difficult. We hiked this trail July 5th, 2013. There were less know because the past winter was one of the driest winter the Sierras had.

Trailhead: Saddlebag Lake, east of Yosemite National Park, in the Hoover Wilderness Area.

Saddlebag Lake

Mileage: 5- 8 miles.
option 1: 8 miles from Saddlebag Lake Resort area.
option 2: take a water taxi to the upper end of Saddlebag Lake across the resort, the main loop is about 5.5 miles.
option 3: take water taxi to the upper end of Saddlebag Lake across the resort, take the trail on the left side of the loop for a 3-mile easy (very gentle slope here and very well defined trail) out and back hike to Steelhead lake.

Change in Elevation for the complete loop: 400 ft (but it all depends since there are some trails that could go higher for more exploring )

Because it looked like the walk from the south end of Saddlebag Lake to the north or upper end seemed to be simply meandering around the lake without much change of scenery, we decided to cut our hike by taking the water-taxi to the main trailhead and only hike the 5-mile loop. While waiting for the water taxi, which runs every 30 minutes, we enjoyed our time throwing stones on the lake and doing some photoshoots. :)

Skipping Rocks @ Saddlebag Lake

During our ride in the boat taxi, we were told that there are three options to enjoy Twenty Lakes Basin Hike:

1. An easy 3 mile out and back hike to Steelhead Lake, starting from the left side of the loop trail. This is advised for people with kids, who may not be able to handle some rocky and undefined trail sections in the right side of the loop.

2. Complete 5.5 mile loop, they advised to take the counterclockwise direction, that is starting from the right side of the loop first. Reasons for this, we are still not tired when we reach the loose rock area and undefined rock scrambling area because it is in the earlier part of the trail and we go downhill on the steepest and rockiest part. 

3. Complete 5.5 mile loop with adding a little bit more mileage to the hike by exploring Lundy Canyon (out and back), then, go back to the main loop trail.

We decided to follow #2 ( complete 5.5 mile loop hike in counterclockwise direction), then, add more miles to explore some parts of Lundy Canyon ( #3). However, by the time we reached Lundy Canyon, the very strong chilly wind stopped us from continuing further Lundy Canyon, we went back to the main loop for a more FUN hike. 

Here are some pictures from our hike ( counterclockwise of the main loop trail):

Burney Falls

Burney Falls, Mc-Arthur Burney Falls Memorial State Park, CA

Burney Falls is the main attraction of Mc-Arthur Burney Falls Memorial State Park, in Burney, CA. This park is about 30 minutes drive North from Manzanita Lake in Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park

Lassen Peak Reflection on Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA

The picture above is my favorite among the hundreds of pictures I took at Lassen Volcanic National Park. In fact, it is my laptop's wall paper right now. This is the first picture I posted here in my blog which I did not reduce the size all the way to a 550 pixels width for faster uploading. I still reduced it though from an original size of 7 MB to 1.2 MB to give my site more uploading space. But the 1.2 MB is good enough for screen saver if in case anyone is interested to have the above piece in their screen.

If Bumpass Hell was filled with steaming and geothermal action, the 1.8 mile loop walk around the lake was simply quiet and very relaxing. The water was surprisingly not that cold, however, we did not bring any swim wear with us, so, we passed the opportunity to swim in this lake. There were a few people kayaking in the lake, and I took the liberty of taking some shots with them in the picture. 

Kayaking at Manzanita Lake

However, as they get nearer, they created more ripples in the lake that the reflection of Lassen Peak was lost, thus I settled for the above picture with them, with a little bit of reflection still. Also, they actually shifted their direction away from where we were later.

Large Old Growth Jeffrey Pine Forest, Manzanita Lake

Around the lake, the trail winds between tall and big trees.  

Some of the the trees have light green lichens hanging from the trunk or the branches.

Light Green Lichens

Lichens on the Branch, Lassen Peak, and Manzanita Lake

The forest actually have a lot of different kind of lichens hanging on the tree, some grey, some bright green, some orange, which is actually a happy news for the environment here. In places where the air is very dirty, no lichens survive usually.

Another  interesting observation we had is seeing how a mother bird feeds her baby. The mother bird dives for food, and then, give it to the baby bird. So sweet to look at. Would have been nice if I had videocam, or if my lens can zoom enough to capture the moment. The pictures below were cropped just to enlarge the action.

Mom Dives for Food

Mom Gives Baby Food

The mom was a very active mom, always diving and always giving something to her babies. The babies took turns in being fed. The one who was fed tried to follow mom as close as possible. The South East side of the lake has some mother and baby geese as well.

Geese Family

The scenery above reminded me of Ratty's wonderful experience with the geese family.

Hikers Enjoying the View at Manzanita Lake

We had a simple lunch ( picnic style) at Manzanita Lake, and afterwards, we took a last glimpse of its calm beauty before moving to our next destination.

So Much To Be Thankful For

Geographical Contrast in the Eastern Sierra, at Bishop, California

Happy thanksgiving everyone! We just came back from a 5 day desert get-away at the Eastern Sierra. We had such a wonderful time hiking and exploring the Sierras. As always, exploring the contrasts and features of nature always give a sense of peacefulness within that strengthens and inspires the heart.

Enjoying the Geographical Diversity in this Planet Earth at the Eastern Sierra, CA

Life has been great so far, though there are a lot of challenges, but there are more joys and happiness. I guess, it is these challenges that bring deeper joy when we are able to survive them and conquer. Like a hike, the joy is not only on reaching the destination, but the entire journey, how we learn and keep on gaining wisdom from each lesson of life. Life is beautiful, there is just so much to be thankful about. I always feel thankful for the love of family and friends, and always grateful for our good health. I also am so thankful for having the energy and the heart to explore the joys in our wonderful world behind the back roads. 

I am hoping to be able to share more details of the places we experienced in the Eastern Sierra in my later posts. I just would want to take this chance to greet you all a Happy Thanksgiving.

Two Late Posts

I missed two Fridays of Fun Friday in our Blogging for Fun Group. Catching Up, I will be posting here two letters, V and W.

V is for very late volcanic post :( .

Lassen Peak Volcano and Lake Helen, Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA, Summer 2009

Lassen Peak Volcano Reflected at Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park, CA, Summer 2009

Lassen Peak is considered the world's largest plug dome volcano that rises 2,000 ft to an elevation of 10,457 ft. This is a very beautiful and peaceful National Park located in North Central California. Aside from Lassen Peak Volcano, Lassen Volcanic National Park consists of 3 other types of volcanoes. Actually, all four types of volcanoes found in the entire world are represented in Lassen Volcanic National Park, these are:

1) shield - Prospect Peak Volcano

2) plug dome - Lassen Peak Volcano

3) cinder cone - Cinder Cone Volcano

4) composite- Broke-off Volcano

Visitation at this park is lowest in March and peaks in the summer. Right now, the Southwest entrance is covered with 130 inches of snow.

Visitor Center at the Southwest Entrance of Lassen Volcanic National Park ( March 24, 2010 )

photographed by: Shanda Ochs, from Lassen Volcanic National Park website

With this kind of snow approaching the end of March, it's no surprise why the peak visitation is in the summer. In fact, last year during summer, we visited this place and this was the condition of the trail to Bumpass Hell when we hiked.

Summer Hiking to Bumpass Hell @ Lassen Volcanic

(from my multiply album, summer 2009)

It is a place where hot and cold co-exist.

snow and steam @ Bumpass Hell

( from my multiply album, summer 2009)

Fumarole at Bumpass Hell 

( from my multiply album, summer 2009)

Sulfur Works, Lassen Volcanic National Park

( from my multiply album, summer 2009 )

Now, from V, on to W. From ice and steam, to wildflowers and waterfalls at San Diego River Canyon Trail. All pictures were taken from our hike last Sunday ( March 21, 2010).

Wildflowers and Waterfall @ Cedar Creek Falls,

San Diego River Canyon ( March 21, 2010)

The hike to this 80 ft waterfall in San Diego River Canyon starts from San Diego Country Estates in Ramona. The hike is about 4.5 miles round trip, with about 1200 ft elevation gain/loss. This is a reverse hike, meaning, starting from higher elevation, we go down to the bottom of the canyon at the river gorge, and on the way back is an uphill hike. Some portions of the trail going down the river is very steep, thus we always bring our hiking poles when we take this trail, 

and those who don't have hiking poles usually end up picking sticks here and there for their poles to help them in their uphill and downhill trek. Unlike last year where there are carpeting wildflowers, this year, because it warmed up late of the year, the chilly and strong winds depressed the wildflowers and instead promoted growth of more weeds. Nevertheless, though more weeds than wildflowers, hiking is still as inspiring and refreshing.

Refreshingly Green

Here are some more pictures of wildflowers and waterfalls from our hike last Sunday.

Kids Enjoying a Dive and Swim After a Hike 

Sunflowers Above the Waterfall

Sunflowers and the River Pool Below

Cedar Creek Falls

Me, Photographing the Yucca 

yucca

Owl's Clover

Poppies

Lupines

I am sorry if I can't update this site often now, having to balance both work and studying and also having classes on Saturdays take so much of my energy that I am not as inspired to sit down and blog in my free time. On my little free time, I prefer to be taking the trails instead and get rejuvenating energy and de-stress from the wonders of nature, enjoying the simple pleasures in life out of the doors.